Pizza J

 

967 Westminster St, Providence, RI 02903

A somewhat divey spot with pinball machines and, it turns out, trivia nights. I got a cheese pizza—there's only one size, which I'd confidently call a large—for $20. They're definitely going for an "NYC" style, and the crust is certainly thin enough to qualify. Sadly, the bottom isn't very crispy, but it does hold up to a fold. The sauce and cheese are generous—perhaps a little too generous, as the cheese tends to congeal together and slide around on the sauce as the pizza cools. The crust is golden, bubbly but uncharred, and not noticeably yeasty or salted. The result is a serviceable but unexciting bread. Still, the overall pie is in most respects exactly what it should be at the price point, and the rest is small quibbles. Hot sauce recommendation: red pepper flakes.

Roommate says, "I wish we hadn't gone on trivia night."

RATING: A

DownCity Pizza & Sandwiches

 

53 Weybosset Street, Providence, RI 02903

Another counter-service restaurant, but downtown this time. I got a personal (10") cheese pizza for $10.95. The gas-fired oven puts a very nice char on the crust, though to be honest I wouldn't mind a bit more. The result is a remarkably delicate and crispy crust. The generous portion of cheese almost weighs down the pillowy bread, but it holds up despite—moist without going gummy or tough. Once again, the sauce is nearly invisible on the palate, and it would be a welcome counterpoint to the ample cheese. Nonetheless, the flavors are very good, especially the bread itself, which manages to be the star of the show. A rare and admirable feat! Hot sauce recommendation: Crystal.

Roommate says, "Get the pistachio ricotta cake!"

RATING: A

Pizzeria Gusto

259 Broadway, Providence, RI 02903

 

A small, counter-service restaurant with a suspiciously large menu. I got a large (16") cheese pizza for $16.50, which is impressively inexpensive. The pizza is superficially similar to a NYC style, but the crust is slightly thicker than you'd expect in the city. The cheese is chewy and lightly browned on top, the sauce is spare and barely detectable outside of the occasional hit of garlic or dried oregano. The undercarriage was golden and sufficiently crispy, though the dough came across slightly under-salted to my palate, and had a vaguely papery quality as a result. The overall effect is a good pie—not blowing anyone out of the water or winning any awards, but successfully delivering good pizza at an extremely reasonable price. Hot sauce recommendation: Tabasco.

Roommate says, "The chicken burrito was weirdly good!"

RATING: B